The Strawberry Milk Run

Free Bikini Pattern

2011-11-29T11:18:00.001-08:00

Everything you need to know about making this colour block bikini is gathered together in this post. The hardest part will be choosing your colour combinations. Turquoise, watermelon & sunshine yellow would be very summery. If you are more of a bronzed beach goddess, you could combine different metallics together. Prefer something more classic? How about black, white & black? I have gone with peach, copper and jade.

Get all the posts

Colour Block Bikini Tutorial - the bikini bottom

2011-11-07T21:31:00.000-08:00

This tutorial starts with the bikini bottom at the end of the tutorial to assemble the pieces. Really, all that is left to do is add the elastic.

Related posts

The elastic chart is shown in the pattern instructions. Cut the elastic to length for the waist line and each leg. Lap the ends of each piece of elastic 2cm and stitch together to form a loop. Sometimes my sewing machine doesn't like doing this for rubber elastic, but it doesn't need to be sewn well; just enough to hold together.

Divide the loop into quarters and mark with a pen. Do this for the waistline elastic and each of the leg hole elastic loops.

Pin the elastic to the waistline of the bikini bottoms. Match one mark to the centre front, the opposite one to the centre back and the remaining marks should match to the side seams.

Stitch the elastic to the bikini bottoms using either an overlocker or a wide 3-step zig-zag on a regular sewing machine.

Now repeat this process for the elastic on the legs. It is just a tad trickier to find the quarter points to match the elastic on the legs. To do this, flatten a leg hole in half, matching the edges, to divide the leg hole into two. Put a pin in each end to mark the half points.

Refold the leg hole in two such that the half point pins are lined up with each other in the centre. Again match the edges. The ends of the fold should now be the quarter points. Mark these with a pin.

Match your pen marks on the leg elastic with the pin marks on the leg holes and attach, again using either an overlocker or a wide 3-step zig-zag on a regular sewing machine.

Fold the elasticated edges to the inside and top stitch in place. If you have a coverstitch machine, you could use this. Otherwise, use a medium zig-zag on a sewing machine. You want to position your stitch so that it is on the inside edge of the elastic NOT in the middle of the elastic. This stops the elastic from rolling inwards when you are wearing the swimmers.

All your work is done now. I will show a photo of the completed bikini in the next post.

Colour Block Bikini Tutorial - the halter top

2011-11-07T17:37:00.000-08:00

Today we are going to complete the halter top.

Related posts

Put 2 strap pieces, wrong sides together, and stitch together. Repeat for the other strap. You can see that on one of the straps I have used a zig-zag stitch on a sewing machine. For the other, I used an overlocker.

Turn the straps, right sides out.

Place a strap in the centre of the upper edge of the right side of the halter.

Place the halter lining on top, right sides facing in, sandwiching the strap in between.

Stitch across the top edge. Repeat for the other strap on the second halter piece. Again, I used used a sewing machine for one and an overlocker for the other.

Turn right sides out.

Refer to the elastic chart in this post to determine the length of elastic that you need for the neckline edge and the armhole edge.

There are 2 ways that you can go about this next bit. Either cut the elastic to length OR cut it longer and mark the length on the elastic with a pen. If you cut it longer, you will have bits to hang onto when you stitch the elastic in place.

If you have an overlocker, serge the elastic onto the halter, through both the halter and lining layers. You will need to stretch the elastic just a little to get it to fit. I usually overlock with the elastic sitting on top, so I can see not to cut the edges off, but I know that other people feed the elastic underneath. Practice both ways and see what works best for you. I usually lengthen the overlock stitch.

If you are using a sewing machine, use a 3-step zig-zag if you have one, to attach the elastic through halter and lining. If you don't have a 3-step zig-zag, use a normal zig-zag. Zig-zag in the middle of the elastic, using the widest stitch that fits on the elastic.

Turn the elasticated edges to the inside and stitch in place. If you have a coverstitch machine, you could use this. Otherwise, use a medium zig-zag on a sewing machine. You want to position your stitch so that it is on the inside edge of the elastic NOT in the middle of the elastic. This stops the elastic from rolling inwards when you are wearing the swimmers. In my picture below, you can see that I have only stitched the upper piece of the halter. This is because I wanted to change thread colour for the lower stripes, but I wanted to complete the next step before changing threads.

Use a satin stitch (dense, wide zig-zag)to secure the ends of the elastic in place.

The fully top-stitched halters are shown here.

You may wish to baste the lining to the halter pieces on the bottom edge using a zig-zag stitch.

(Since I wrote this tutorial, I have learnt a better way to do this, taking into account turn-of-cloth of the lining. I will show this in a later tutorial, but you could read Sherry's tutorial if the bit of lining poking out annoys you!)

Fold up the casing (1.5 cm).

Stitch the casing in place using a narrow zig-zag. You may need to stretch the halter a little to fit the bottom edge. this makes the seam a little bubbly, but you won't see this once the drawstring has been threaded through.

Repeat for the other halter cup.

Make the drawstring tie, using the 4 cm strip you cut from across the width of the main fabric and a length of 1 cm wide elastic cut to the same length as the fabric strip. I have not shown tutorial steps to make the drawstring, as I have written a whole tutorial previously on making swimwear straps.

Feed the drawstring through the casing of one halter cup and then the other, making sure that the neckline edges are at the centre front. You can tie the drawsting either at the back, or between the cups at the front. Adjust gathering along casing to fit.

Next up, applying elastic to the bikini bottoms.

Colour Block Bikini Tutorial - assembling the pieces

2011-11-02T19:50:00.000-07:00

Now up to the fun bit...sewing it all together. I have broken this tutorial into several parts, just because the post is rather picture heavy.

Related posts

Layout the pieces as they will be assembled. There are notches on the pattern pieces to assist you in laying them out. If you lay them out neatly as you work, there will be less chance of putting in a piece upside down or back to front. The bikini top uses pieces 7, 4, 5 and 6 as well as the strips cut for the tie.

The bottoms use pieces 1, 2 & 3.

Cut out the lining pieces.

Assemble pieces 4, 5 & 6 as you have laid them out (do not attach the neck strap yet). You can use either a narrow zig-zag stitch or an overlocker to assemble the pieces. In this tutorial, I have tried to show both methods where possible. The photo below shows the zig-zag stitch. If you are concerned about the width of zig-zag to use, pull on the seam after you have sewn it, to stretch it and check that the stitched do not pop.

I can see in these photos that my peach coloured fabric has been cut wrong side out. I can tell that because of the way the fabric is curling. Never mind this mistake...it won't change the tutorial and the finished product is fine (just a shame I didn't notice at the time...I was trying so hard to make everything perfect!).

Lay the assembled bikini top pieces over the lining pattern to check that everything has been assembled okay. You may want to use a stitcky dot to mark the neckline edge. The neckline edge is straighter than the armhole edge, but it would be easy to get them mixed up.

Lay the bikini top pieces over the bikini top lining. The lining pattern is the same size as the outer pieces.

Ideally, the lining should be a smidge smaller to allow for the turn-of-cloth when you fold the elastic in. Different lining fabrics will behave differently, so the pattern has not been modified to allow for this turn of cloth. You could cut the lining 1-2 mm smaller aIl the way around if you wanted a neater finish. It should not affect the appearance of the bikini when worn, as both the outer fabric and lining are required to stretch to cover the body.

I have seen some lining fabrics relax and end up bigger than the pattern from which they were cut. If this happens, lay the pattern over the top and cut again.

Assemble the bikini bottom pieces, again using either a narrow zi-zag or an overlocker. Lay the bikini bottom, wrong side down, on a flat surface, with the front waist uppermost.

Fold the back of the bikini bottom up over the front, so that right sides are facing in.

Fold the lining bottom in the same way, with right sides facing in (the right side is the side that touches your skin).

Lay the lining over the bikini bottom, matching side seams. Stitch the side seams.

This photo shows the side seam stitched.

Fold the front half of the lining to the front of the bikini bottom. See how the seam allowances are hidden and won't be rubbing against the skin. The lining is attached the bikini and won't slip around. You won't need to fuss around matching seam lines.

Turn the bikini right side out.

I'll attach the elastic in the next tutorial.

Colour Block Bikini pattern details

2011-10-31T21:32:00.000-07:00

Here we have all the extra bits of information that you might need to get started on your colour block bikini...hmmmm, beachy, summer weather is not too far away ...

Related Posts:
psst: don't have your pattern printed out yet? Go here to get it.

Pattern # 12011

Pattern description: Halter style bikini with colour block detailing. The halter bikini top has a flattering neckline, wide neck strap, moderate coverage and an adjustable drawstring underbust tie. The bikini bottoms are low slung with full coverage in the back. The halter and bottoms are fully lined.

Fabric Requirements: swimwear fabrics with stretch in both the vertical and horizontal direction, such as nylon spandex; swimwear lining. Both lining and fashion fabrics should have 75% stretch. This means that 10 cm (4") of fabric should stretch to 17.5 cm (7"). When testing the stretchiness of your fabric, use a folded edge of fabric rather than a cut edge.

main colour (lower stripe of halter, centre panel of bottoms): 0.6 m (5/8 yard)
contrast 1 (halter straps, upper stripe of halter, outer panel of bottoms): 0.5 m (5/8 yard)
contrast 2 (middles strips of halter, middle panel of bottoms): 0.2 m (1/4 yard)
lining: 0.6 m (5/8 yard)

(note: you could use 0.3 m (3/8 yard) of contrast 1 if you want to cut the neck straps on the cross grain)

Notions:

3.5 m (3 7/8 yards) of 10 mm (3/8") swimwear elastic
polyester thread
stretch or ball point sewing machine needle

Sizing Chart:

Size	6	8	10	12	14	16	18
Bust (cm)	76	80	84	88	92	96	100
Hips (cm)	81	85	89	93	97	101	105

Size
Bust (inches)	29 7/8	31 1/2	33 1/8	34 5/8	36 1/4	37 3/4	39 3/8
Hips (inches)	31 7/8	33 1/2	35	36 5/8	38 1/4	39 3/4	41 3/8

Elastic Chart:

Metric

Size	Neckline	Armhole	Waist	Legs	Tie	Total
	Cut 2	Cut 2	Cut 1	Cut 2	Cut 1
6	27.0 cm	27.4 cm	68.6 cm	49.7 cm	140.0 cm	276.9 cm
8	27.9 cm	28.5 cm	71.6 cm	51.6 cm	140.0 cm	287.6 cm
10	28.9 cm	29.6 cm	74.7 cm	53.6 cm	140.0 cm	298.8 cm
12	29.9 cm	30.7 cm	78.0 cm	55.6 cm	140.0 cm	310.4 cm
14	31.0 cm	31.8 cm	81.4 cm	57.7 cm	140.0 cm	322.5 cm
16	32.1 cm	33.0 cm	85.0 cm	59.9 cm	140.0 cm	335.0 cm
18	33.2 cm	34.3 cm	88.7 cm	62.2 cm	140.0 cm	348.1 cm

Inches

Size	Neckline	Armhole	Waist	Legs	Tie	Total
	Cut 2	Cut 2	Cut 1	Cut 2	Cut 1
	inches	inches	inches	inches	inches	yard
6	10 5/8	10 3/4	27	19 5/8	55 1/8	3
8	11	11 1/4	28 1/8	20 3/8	55 1/8	3 1/8
10	11 3/8	11 5/8	29 3/8	21 1/8	55 1/8	3 1/4
12	11 3/4	12 1/8	30 3/4	21 7/8	55 1/8	3 3/8
14	12 1/4	12 1/2	32	22 3/4	55 1/8	3 1/2
16	12 5/8	13	33 1/2	23 5/8	55 1/8	3 5/8
18	13 1/8	13 1/2	34 7/8	24 1/2	55 1/8	3 3/4

Cutting:

Print out the pattern and tape or glue the sheets of papertogether.

Choose your halter size based on the bust measurement (pieces 4, 5, 6, 7, 9). Choose your bottoms size based on the hip measurement (pieces 1, 2, 3, 8).

Cut out the pattern pieces. Cut away the pattern lines. Eachpiece comes in sizes 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 & 18. Not all sizes are marked on the smallerpieces, but sizes 6, 12 and 18 are marked. If you are between these sizes, just count out the number of lines toget to your size.

Cut the following pieces in fabric. Arrows on the pattern pieces indicate lengthwise grain.

Main:

1 x piece 1 on fold
2 x piece 6
4 cm strip (1 1/2") across the width of the fabric, for the tie strap

- Contrast 1

4 x piece 7
2 x piece 3
2 x piece 4

Contrast 2

2 x piece 2
2 x piece 5

Lining

1 x piece 8 on fold
2 x piece 9

Hem and Seam Allowances: Seam allowances are 10 mm (3/8 "), unless otherwise stated. Elastic allowance is 10 mm (3/8"). Casing on halter top is 15 mm (5/8")

My next post will be a tutorial on making up this colour block bikini pattern.

Colour Block Bikini Pattern

2011-10-25T19:13:00.000-07:00

Are you getting ready to make this bikini pattern? Are you planning your favourite colour combos? Today I am giving you the pattern, in sizes 6 - 18. In a later post, I will list fabric requirements, notions etc and the size chart. After that I will show you how easy it is to make them. But let's not get ahead of ourselves. First, the pattern.

(note: the first page of the downloads are blank, so don't panic when you can't see anything. Just scroll down to the second page)

Pattern #: 12011

Download pattern suitable for printing on A4 paper.

Download pattern suitable for printing on letter paper.

The downloaded files contain 17 pages. Discard the first page, which is blank. Assemble pages 2 - 17 in a 4 x 4 block (pages 2,3,4,5 across the top row, pages 6,7,8,9 in the second row etc). Note that pages 13 and 17 are blank. Your pattern should look like this:

Coming soon...

2011-10-18T20:55:00.000-07:00

Pattern and tutorial for a colour block, halter style bikini. A fun swimsuit for summer!

Sewing swimwear spaghetti straps using domestic sewing machines

2011-10-10T21:34:00.000-07:00

I love sewing swimwear, but it has taken me a bit of practice to get good results. I wanted to write some tutorials so that you can get better results without having to practice as much as I did. This tutorial shows some of the ways you can make swimwear straps using domestic sewing machines. You want to end up with a neat strap that doesn't pop its stitches when stretched.

I cut strips of lycra across the width of fabric, using a rotary cutter and quilting ruler. I find that using a rotary cutter and ruler give me a more even cutting width than by using scissors. For all of the straps below, I have used powdered, rubber elastic, width 6 mm (sourced here).

(5 methods will be shown)

Method 1: Wrap around, sewing machine

For this method, cut the strip of fabric 3 x elastic width, taking into account the thickness of the elastic. My elastic is 6 mm wide and 1 mm thick, so I have used 3 x (1+6) = 21 mm strap width.

Sew the elastic to one edge of the fabric using a 3-step zig-zag stitch. If you don't know what a 3-step zig-zag is, click on the photo below. You can also see that I have used a stitch width of 4 and a length just below 2.

I have used a ribbon foot to guide the elastic. You do not need this, it just helps me keep the elastic straight. You may have another foot with a guide to keep both the elastic and fabric straight.

This is what is looks like after the elastic is attached.

Wrap the fabric around the elastic and stitch again, using a plain zig-zag stitch. I have used a width and length of about 3.

Here you can see both sides of the finished strap. The strap is flat. You could use a twin needle or a cover stitch machine for the second pass of stitching if you prefer.

Method 2: Wrap around, overlocker + sewing machine

This method is essentially the same as above, except that the first pass is done on an overlocker.

When attaching elastic to lycra, I usually lengthen the stitch on my overlocker to its longest setting.

On the advice of my sewing machine mechanic, I thread the needle thread through the left most tension dial, for 3-thread overlocking, even if I am using the right needle position.

For this method, I cut the fabric wider than I need, and trim it later. I do this because I tend to have less control with the overlocker than the sewing machine, and am not as consistent with my sewing position. I have cut a fabric with of 30 mm for 6 mm wide elastic.

First I use the overlocker to attach the elastic to one side of the fabric. Because I have used a wider fabric than I need, it doesn't matter if the overlocker trims the fabric a little. You do not want the overlocker to cut the elastic.

You can see that I stretched the elastic a little as I applied it.

I then wrap the fabric around the elastic and stitch it down using a zig-zag stitch (length 3, width 3) on a regular sewing machine. You could use a twin needle or a cover stitch machine for this second pass of stitching if you prefer.

Here is a photo of the stitched strap.

It is fairly easy to trim the excess fabric away neatly.

Completed strap. Again, quite a flat strap.

Method 3: Tubular strap, sewing machine

For this method, the fabric is cut at least 5 mm wider than 2 x elastic width. I have used a fabric width of 25 mm for 6 mm elastic.

Fold the fabric strip in half, right sides together. Align the elastic a little to the right of the fold. If you align it right on the fold, the tube will not be wide enough. The distance away from the fold should be equal to the width of stitching into the elastic, but a couple of millimetres will do if you are not sure.

Use a zig-zag stitch to stitch down the right edge of the elastic. You want to catch the elastic in the left swing of the zig-zag but go off the edge of the elastic in the right swing of the zig-zag. I used a width of 3 and a length of 3, but I recommend closer stitching, as you will see later.

Make a snip in the folded edge of the elastic, about 1 cm from the end of the tube.

Slide a bobby pin over this end of the tube and then into the tube to turn through.

Completed tube. This part looks okay but...

Some of the stitches popped when I was turning the tube.

You can tie a knot to neaten the end of the strap.

I repeated this method, using a zig-zag stitch length of 2.

This results in a beautiful strap with no popped stitches. The seam line sits in from the edge of the strap, so the strap does not sit perfectly flat. If you look at the straps of commercially produced swimwear, you will see this same effect, so don't worry about it. These types of straps are often used as ties on bikinis.

Method 4: Tubular strap, overlocker

This method is similar to method 3 above, only using an overlocker.

I found I did not have as much control as using a sewing machine.

The fabric and lycra slipped around, making it hard to keep a consistent distance from the folded edge.

The final result looked okay though. Of course it would look better with matching thread.

Method 5: Plaited strap.

Some days you just can't get the results you want. Your machine may not be feeling friendly. Some elastics don't behave nicely. Perhaps you have broken your last stretch needle? Well, don't despair. You can make pretty straps without a sewing machine.

Cut 3 strips of fabric, each 1 cm wide. They don't have to be contrasting colours. You can use a printed fabric.

Knot the strips together. Secure the knot in position. I usually open a desk or kitchen drawer, put the knot inside and close the drawer again to secure. Plait away. The strips tend to curl, so if you are using a printed fabric, try to get the fabric to curl inwards so that all the colour shows in the plait.

Finished strap. I started with 50 cm lengths. The final strap was just longer than 50 cm, so the fabric must have stretched whilst I was plaiting it. The final strap still has good stretch and recovery, though perhaps not quite as good as the elastic straps above.

My favourite methods are 2&3 as these give me the neatest results for the least hassle. I would choose between 2 and 3 depending on the use for the strap.

Boys Trunks - changing the fit

2011-08-09T20:30:00.000-07:00

How everybody likes their undies to fit is a pretty personal thing, so in this post I am going to show you some ways that you can alter my free Boys Trunks Pattern to get the fit that you want.

For a looser fit in the legs

Slash the main pattern piece through the leg, up to the crotch stitching line, as shown in the photograph below. Spread the pattern piece the desired amount. Smooth out the leg opening curve when you are cutting.

For a looser fit in the crotch

Take the crotch pattern piece and make two slashes, from the centre front through to the stitching line on the other side, in the bottom half of the crotch piece. Spread the desired amount. Again, smooth the curves when cutting out.

For a closer fit in the crotch

Slash the crotch pattern piece as shown in the photograph for a looser fit. Then, instead of spreading the pattern pieces apart, you overlap them the desired amount.

To change the rise (height of the waistband elastic)

For this, you will need to make alterations to both the main pattern piece and the crotch pattern piece. Sit the crotch piece on top of the main piece, so that the sewing lines (not the cutting lines) are sitting on top of each other and there is a smooth line at the top of the pattern piece.

You can either cut the top of the pattern pieces, to make a lower rise, or add some height to the pieces to get closer to the waist. You do not have to remove / add an even amount all the way across. In the photograph below, I have lowered the rise at the front of the pattern, but left the back rise as it is. This is shown by the pink line on the pattern pieces. Just make sure that the back line is at right-angles to the centre back fold line (CB) and the front part of the line is at right angles to the centre front (CF) seam on the crotch piece.
.

Separate the 2 pieces and cut on the line.

If you change the waistband position, you may need to change the elastic length. Just make the trunks up until it is time to add the elastic, Try them on and measure the length of elastic that you need.

Boys Trunks Pattern

2011-08-07T19:02:00.000-07:00

Related posts:
Trunks tutorial
Changing the fit of trunks

Okay, so this is the first time that I have tried to share pdf files from a blog, so for sure there is a better way! This is how I have worked out how to do it for now. I have uploaded the pattern files to Scribd. I think you have to login into Scribd to download the files. It does not cost anything to sign up to Scribd.

There are 3 pages to this pattern. Each page is given in a separate pdf file. Click on "Download" at the bottom of each picture. The downloaded file can then be opened and printed from Adobe Reader. I created the files to be printed on A4 paper. I'm not sure what happens when you print on letter paper, but each page does include a bit of overlap, so hopefully that works okay as well.

If you scroll past the 3 pictures, you will find pattern info, including a size chart and notions list.

Boys Trunks Page 1

Boys Trunks Page 2

Boys Trunks Page 3

Size Chart

Size	Hip Measurement	Elastic measurement	Hip Measurement	Elastic measurement
	(cm)	(cm)	(inches)	(inches)
3	57.4	52.6	22 5/8	20 3/4
4	60	54.9	23 5/8	21 5/8
5	62.6	57.2	24 5/8	22 1/2
6	65.2	59.5	25 5/8	23 3/8
7	67.8	61.8	26 3/4	24 1/4
8	70.4	64.0	27 3/4	25 1/4
9	73	66.3	28 3/4	26 1/8
10	75	68.1	29 1/2	26 3/4

Fabric Selection: this pattern is designed for knit fabrics with good stretch and recovery. Cotton-lycra, supplex-lycra or viscose-lycra blends would be ideal.
Supplies and notions

0.4 m of fabric (this should be enough to make 2 - 3 pairs, depending on the size)
soft elastic, 20 - 25 mm width, see table for length
polyester thread
stretch or ball point sewing machine needle

Pattern Info

Seam and hem allowances are included with the pattern. Seam allowances = 6 mm (1/4"). Hem allowance is 10 mm (3/8").

Boys Trunks Tutorial

2011-08-04T20:05:00.000-07:00

For this tutorial, I have chosen fabric that looks different on the right and wrong sides. The right side is a blue and grey stripe, the wrong side is a tiny grey dot on a blue background.

Step 1: Cut out the pattern.

The main piece needs to be cut once, on the fold. The crotch piece needs to be cut 4 times, so cut it out twice through a double thickness of fabric.

Step 2: Sew the crotch piece.

Arrange the crotch pieces so that you have 2 sets, right sides facing in.

Place one set on top of the other.

Sew through all 4 layers at once, down the CF seam (on the pattern, this will be the un-notched seam). I have used an overlocker to sew this seam. If you do not have an overlocker, try a narrow zig-zag stitch.

Open out the top layer of fabric and the very bottom layer of fabric.

You should now have a double layer crotch piece with no exposed seams.

Step 3: Attach the crotch piece to the main panel.

Sew one side of the crotch panel to one of the curved (and notched, on the downloadable pattern) seams on the main panel, right sides together. You will be sewing through 3 thicknesses of fabric altogether.

Fold over the main panel and attach the other side of the crotch piece to the other curved seam of the main panel.

The trunks should now look like this, from the inside.

Step 4: Sew the inner leg seam.

Flip the trunks over and match up the inner leg seams at the bottom of the crotch seams to the inner leg "slit" on the main panel. Stitch, being careful to catch the sharp corner at the top of the slit on the main panel.

Step 5: Hem the trunks.

This can be done with either a cover stitch machine, or a twin needle on a regular machine, or a zig-zag stitch on a regular machine. I have just used a zig-zag on a regular machine. The zig-zag stitch allows the leg opening to stretch.

Step 6: Attach the waistband elastic.

The elastic is sewn with a flat joining seam to minimise bulk. Commercially, this would be done with a cover stitch. There are a couple of different stitches you could use on a regular machine. The photo below shows where I have tested out a few different stitches using a scrap of elastic on some scrap fabric. From left to right, I have tried on the the stretch stitches that comes on my machine, a 3-step zig-zag with short stitch length, a 3-step zig-zag with a longer stitch length and a regular zig-zag. Have a play around and decide what works best for you.

Stretch stitch on my machine

3-step zig-zag stitch selector.

You can use the recommended elastic lengths, given with the pattern. You could also custom measure, making sure that the final measurement is at least a smidge smaller than the fabric to which it is being attached.

Overlap the ends of the elastic by 2 cm.

Stitch to secure.

Divide the waist of the trunks into quarters. The easiest way to do this is to mark the CF (centre front) with a pin.

Flatten the trunks so that the CF pin is at one side. Place another pin at the other side.

Flatten the trunks so that these 2 pins are directly on top of each other. Put pins at the new sides.

Similarly, mark the elastic in quarters. I mark the elastic with a marker, rather than pins, as it is less fiddly.

Sit the elastic on the outside of the trunks, matching up marks on the elastic with pins in the trunks and aligning the top edges. You can either put the elastic seam at the CF or the CB. You could always sew a tag over the elastic seam if you did not want it to show.

Stitch the bottom edge of the elastic to the trunks, slightly stretching the elastic to fit the fabric, using the stitch that you decided above.

Turn the trunks inside out and cut away any excess fabric above your line of stitching.

Ta-da! Completed trunks.

Right side out.

Inside out.